Hair industry experts have always highlighted the importance of a tailored hair care routine for achieving and maintaining healthy, vibrant hair. However, with the varieties of products (i.e., shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, hair growth supplements) and techniques available today, it can be overwhelming to determine what truly works. Factors such as hair type, texture, and porosity play a crucial role in creating an effective hair care routine.
Your hair is unique – shaped by genetics and environmental factors – so your hair care routine would be pretty much different from that of everyone else’s—unless you have the same hair type and characteristics. Thus, to ensure you create a personalised hair care routine that works for you, you need to listen to what your hair likes and needs. This entails understanding your hair type, texture, and porosity.
Hair Type, Texture, & Porosity—Overview
Hair Types
Hair types are primarily defined by the curl pattern of the hair strands. In the hair industry, Andre Walker’s hair typing system (1997) is the most widely recognised classification system.
Originally, the hair typing system categorises hair into four main types: straight, wavy, curly, and coily/kinky. However, over the years, the system has evolved, introducing subcategories within each type to more precisely classify hair within each group.
Type 1 – Straight
Type 1 hair is characterised by its lack of curls or waves. The strands extend straight from the roots to the tips and can vary in thickness.
· 1A – Straight and Fine
This subtype features very fine hair that is soft and shiny, but it can get greasy fast. Type 1A hair is a bit flat and lacks volume.
· 1B – Less Straight
Type 1B hair has more volume compared to 1A and may have a subtle bend, but it is still mostly straight.
· 1C – Bone Straight
This type is thick and straight, often appearing glossy. It holds styles well but can be challenging to curl due to its texture.
Type 2 – Wavy
Wavy hair showcases a natural wave pattern that can range from loose, relaxed waves to more structured, defined ones.
· 2A – Soft Waves: This subtype features fine hair with loose, tousled waves that are easy to style.
· 2B – Wavy: This type has more pronounced S-shaped waves that start from the midpoint of the hair shaft, showcasing a bouncier look.
· 2C – Deep Waves: Characterised by thick, well-defined waves, Type 2C hair is more susceptible to frizz and requires extra care to maintain the integrity of the waves.
Type 3 – Curly
Curly hair has a distinct curl pattern that can vary in tightness and volume.
· 3A – Soft Curls: This subtype features loose curls with a circumference wider than a pencil. Typically, these curls are shiny and have a lovely bounce.
· 3B – Curly: Characterised by tighter curls with a circumference similar to a Sharpie marker; Type 3B hair has more volume and requires moisture for maintained definition.
· 3C – Ultra Curly: These curls are very tight and springy, often resembling corkscrews. They require gentle handling to prevent frizz.
Type 4 – Coily/Kinky
Coily hair is defined by its tight curls or kinks, which can vary greatly in texture.
· 4A – Coiled: This subtype features soft, S-shaped coils that are delicate and need plenty of moisture to stay healthy.
· 4B – Zig-Zag: The curls in Type 4B hair form a zig-zag pattern, which may be less defined.
· 4C – Tightly Coiled: Type 4C hair showcases extremely tight coils that may not appear curly at all. This subtype is often the most fragile and requires regular moisture to maintain its health.
Hair Texture
Hair texture refers to the thickness or diameter of hair strands. It plays a crucial role in how your hair behaves and reacts to different products.
- Fine Hair – Fine hair strands are thin and delicate, often becoming oily quickly. They can be easily weighed down by heavy products, which may leave them lacking in volume. However, fine hair can be styled effectively with lighter products like mousses or sprays.
- Medium Hair – Medium-textured hair is thicker than fine hair but not as coarse as thick hair. It typically holds styles well and is less susceptible to breakage compared to fine hair.
- Coarse Hair – Coarse hair has a thicker diameter and often consists of multiple layers (cortex, cuticle, medulla). This type of hair is generally more resilient against damage from heat or styling products but can become frizzy in humid conditions.
Hair Porosity
Porosity refers to the ability of hair strands to absorb moisture. Understanding your hair porosity level can help you choose the right products for hydration and care.
- Low Porosity – Hair with low porosity has tightly closed cuticles that resist moisture absorption. As a result, products often sit on the surface rather than penetrating the hair strand.
- Medium Porosity – Medium porosity hair features a balanced cuticle layer that allows moisture to enter while retaining it effectively. This type typically requires less maintenance than low or high-porosity hair.
- High Porosity – High porosity hair has gaps or holes in the cuticle layer, making it easy for moisture to enter but also leading to rapid loss of hydration. This condition often results from damage caused by chemical treatments or heat styling.
How to Identify Your Hair Characteristics
Identifying your hair type, texture, and porosity involves a few simple steps that you can perform at home. Here is a step-by-step guide to determining your hair characteristics:
1. Determine Your Hair Type
· There are ample ways to determine your hair type, but below is the simplest test you can do:
1. Let your hair air dry after washing without using any styling tools or products.
2. Observe your hair’s shape and how it falls naturally to determine your hair type:
- Type 1 (Straight): Falls flat from roots to tips.
- Type 2 (Wavy): Has loose, S-shaped waves.
- Type 3 (Curly): Forms defined curls.
- Type 4 (Coily): Features tight curls or oils.
2. Assess Your Hair Texture
· There are three ways to determine whether your hair is fine, medium, or coarse:
The Strand Slide Test
Procedure: Take a single strand of hair, put it between your thumb and index finger, and rub the hair back and forth to feel its thickness.
Assessment:
· If the strand feels almost invisible or very thin, you likely have fine hair.
· If you can feel the strand slightly, it indicates medium hair.
· If the strand feels thick and substantial, you have coarse hair.
The Thread Test
Procedure: Compare a strand of your hair to a piece of thread.
Assessment:
· If your hair is thinner than the thread, it indicates you have fine hair.
· If your hair matches the thickness of the thread, you have medium hair.
· If it is thicker than the thread, your hair is coarse.
The Dryness Test
Procedure: Take a small section of your clean, dry hair (free from any styling products), and run your fingers along the strands from the tips to the roots.
Assessment:
· If your hair feels dry and brittle, it may indicate fine texture.
· If your hair feels somewhat moisturised but still has some dryness, you likely have medium hair.
· If your hair feels thick and dry but retains some moisture, it suggests a coarse texture.
3. Test Your Hair Porosity
· You can easily test your hair’s porosity with a simple water test. Here is how to do the test:
1. Take a few strands of clean, dry hair and place them in a glass of water.
2. Let the hair strands sit for a few minutes, then observe whether they sink or float.
· If they float, you have low porosity hair.
· If they float for a while before sinking, you have medium porosity hair.
· If they sink quickly, you likely have high porosity hair.
General Hair Care Tips
While you are still in the process of creating your personalised hair care routine, you may employ general care tips to start maintaining healthy hair. Here are some of them:
Trimming Split Ends
Regularly trimming your hair is essential for maintaining healthy hair. Aim to trim your ends every 6 to 8 weeks to remove split ends and prevent further damage. This practice not only keeps your hairstyle looking fresh but also prevents further damage by eliminating damaged strands.
Choosing the Right Shampoo
Selecting the appropriate shampoo is crucial for maintaining healthy hair. Look for shampoos that are free from harsh chemicals (e.g., sulphates and parabens), which can strip natural oils and cause dryness.
There are different types of shampoos, each with their own purposes:
· Clarifying Shampoo – This type is designed to remove product buildup and impurities from the hair. Clarifying shampoos are effective but should be used sparingly (about once a month) to avoid stripping natural oils.
· Daily Shampoo – Ideal for regular use, daily shampoos cleanse the hair without being too harsh. It is suitable for most hair types but should be chosen based on individual oiliness or dryness.
· Moisturising Shampoo – This type of shampoo is enriched with hydrating ingredients to help replenish moisture in dry or damaged hair.
· Volumising Shampoo – This type of shampoo often contains ingredients that help add body and fullness to fine or limp hair.
Avoiding Over-Shampooing
While it is important to keep your hair clean, over-shampooing can strip away essential oils, leading to dryness and damage. Most people benefit from washing their hair two to three times a week, depending on their hair and scalp conditions and lifestyle.
If you have fine or oily hair, you might need to wash more frequently – every other day or even daily. Conversely, if you have thick, curly, or dry hair, less frequent washing is advisable, possibly once or twice a week.
Rinsing Thoroughly
After shampooing and conditioning, ensure you rinse your hair thoroughly. Residual products can lead to buildup, making your hair look dull and lifeless.
If you are unsure if you have completely rinsed off shampoo and conditioner products from your hair, follow this rule of thumb: rinse for at least 30 seconds longer than you think necessary.
Drying Your Hair Naturally
Whenever possible, allow your hair to air dry instead of using heat-styling tools like blow dryers. However, if you must use a blow dryer, keep it on a low setting and hold it at least 15 cm away from your scalp.
Alternatively, gently squeeze excess water from your hair with a soft towel instead of rubbing it aggressively, as this can create tangles and lead to breakage.
Maintaining Scalp Health
A healthy scalp is crucial for healthy hair growth. Keep your scalp clean by using appropriate shampoos and incorporating treatments or serums with natural ingredients for hair care and scalp health.
Among the natural ingredients used in the best hair and scalp growth serums is quercetin. This is a flavonoid found in many plants, fruits, and vegetables and has been linked to several health benefits, including reduced inflammation and lowered risk of developing certain diseases.
In the context of hair care, quercetin offers several advantages, such as:
· Antioxidant Protection
· Anti-Inflammatory Properties
· DHT Inhibition
· Enhanced Blood Circulation
Why Follicle Labs?
For those seeking to incorporate the best treatments or serums into their hair care routine, our Que+ Hair Growth Serum™ combines quercetin with other active ingredients like NMN, vitamins B3, B,5, and B7 (Biotin), and plant extracts such as Saw Palmetto. It not only stimulates new hair growth but also focuses on improving the overall condition of existing hair—making it healthier, stronger, and thicker—regardless of hair type.